Goa 2010/11

December 21st 2010 - January 11th 2011

Please Note That A Very Extensive Trip Report From 2009 Is Recommended To Be Used In Conjunction With This Report As Details, Maps, And Other Details Will Be Spread Over The Two Reports. Just Click On The Left Menu Choosing Goa 2009.

Goa Videos

A few videos of places we visited can be found on our YouTube channel
Hampi Trip HERE    Hospet Taxi Ride HERE     Hospet Walkabout HERE      Train Ride From Goa to Karnataka HERE



View Birding in Goa in a larger map

Deatails Of Things of Interest & Information ETC.

Qatar Airlines HERE        Marinha Dourada HERE
Backwoods Camp HERE           Althams Travel HERE
Tourist Trips While In Goa HERE           Goa Discussion Forum HERE
Visas
HCI London HERE        VFS Global (visa outsourcing company) HERE
Goa Visa forum discussion HERE         A completed Visa application is available to viewHERE

Items of use in preparing and in use for the trip.
     




Managed to get hold of a copy of this as it seems a very good site guide. I have photocopied over 70 pages of what I think will be handy info and maps so if anybody is struggling to get their hands on one click on the link below where you can view and download pages.

Peter Harris Goa Guide >HERE<


Cost Breakdown

The holiday was booked through Althams travel using Thomson as the tour company. We also purchased the option of a taxi service to and from Manchester airport using Althams comfortable transport.

Package holiday with Thomson stopping at Marinha Dourada on a B&B basis for 21 nights £2640 for both of us

Upgraded seating on plane to premier cabin £660 for both of us

Transport to and from Manchester Airport  £66 for both of us.

Visa Cost £ 78.10 for both of us.

Travel Insurance for couple £77 (yearly worldwide cover inc a pre-existing illness)

Stay at Backwoods Camp for 3 night/4 days £125 per person

Flight Details & Experience
Flight Times
Man-Goa Tues 21st Dec 01:45 - 17:00 (advertised)
Man-Goa Wed 23rd Dec 10:30 - 01:30 (actual)
Goa-Man Tues 11th Jan 19:00 - 0:30 (advertised) 
Goa-Man Tues 11th Jan 19:30 - 01:10 (actual)

Disaster Hit Trip

Not for everybody but it's a record of our trip so skip this as no details of birding in this section.

First up was the massive set back of a 32 hour delay. On arrival we were asked "did you not get a call telling you not to come?" Silly silly question.....would I now be stood at the desk? This was at 22:45 on the 20th Dec ready for check in for the flight to leave at 01:45 the following morning. We were now told that the flight would not go until 15:35 on the 21st Dec. There was no plan from Thomson on what to do with anybody that turned up. The flight had been cancelled at 05:00 that day so they had time to plan. Eventually after a lot of people with steam coming out of their ears complaining and not being happy to be told go home....home some had come from Glasgow, Nottingham etc. They agreed to take us to a hotel for the night. They would not do this though until the flight had closed at 01:00 as we were told more people may turn up....yes but why not take us now and bring any body else later? No no no, so we eventually got on the coach at 01:00. After a 45min trip to a hotel in Warrington we checked in and told we would be picked up at 12:00 midday for the flight at 15:35. A short sleep was had. I checked the ceefax and noted that the plane they had earmarked for our flight was coming from Cancun and was already delayed by two hours! Non the less we were told that the time had not changed. It became obvious that we would not be taking off as the plane I was suspecting would be ours was, and so we were told of a 3 hour delay. We were finally at the boarding gate and could see the plane.....then the captain came out..gulp! He told us that damage had been found on the plane but it could be repaired. He was almost throttled but Many and I just thought it more unlucky than anything to do with a reluctance to get us on the plane. Captain Alan Harris said he would be back out at 19:30 to give us some more details. As promised the Captain came out and told us that more damage had been found and that the repair would take longer than expected. That was not the bad news....he told us that by the time the repair was finished the crew will have run out of time and that GOA would not accept the flight at the time we would arrive due to it being a naval airport. He said that it would be best to call it a day now and come back tomorrow with the plane repaired and the crew good as new. To be honest I did not run with the wolves instead I approached the Captain and held my hand out to shake his, as I explained that I appreciated his honesty and acknowledged that he himself did not have to come out and tell us this news, but he did.

Back to a different hotel having returned to the carousel to collect our luggage. Crammed on to coaches we arrived at another hotel in Northenden at about 22:00. A bite to eat and in bed for about 23:30 to be picked up by coach at 04:00 for an 08:00 flight. Not nearly enough sleep due to a couple of Scouse women that must have been hard of hearing. Then at about 02:00 the fire alarm went off.....God that wakes you up alright....false alarm as police were swarming the hotel as a drunk woman had destroyed the hotel kitchen looking for her partner that was with another woman somewhere so failing to find him she decided to hit the fire alarm! So no sleep really, back on the coach, checked in and at boarding gate only to be told that our plane that was promised had gone elsewhere but they were bringing a plane from Luton but it was delayed due to it being frozen!!!!! Finally at about 09:30 we boarded the plane and at 10:30 the wheels of the plane (which strangely felt like they had come off after a 32 hour delay) left Manchester tarmac.

Introduction

Having missed a few birds I really would have liked to have seen we always wanted to return and December was good for us on several counts not least to catch some of the passage birds I missed going in February in 2009. I really wanted to see Small Pratincole, Indian Blue Robin and Blue Faced Malkoha. We found the Marinha Dourada to be a great base as it is outside the unbearable hustle, bustle and constant noise of the main resorts of Baga, Calangute and Candolim. The setting is superb, good restaurants nearby and it's central, and walkable to Baga Hill, Arpora Wood, Arpora Saltpans as well as having tidal pools close by.

GPS Mapping Of Birding Places In Goa

I logged via GPS a few places I visited whilst out birding. Places like Siolim, Mayem, and Arpora Woods are amongst them along with many more. Just click on the link which takes you to my GPS trip site. From there choose which mapping data/trip you want to see.

GPS Mapping HERE

 

Guides Used And Other Info

Lloyd Fernandes was our main guide and whilst he is more expensive (800rps per person) than others we never felt we did not have value for money. His trips out all included a home made simple breakfast of bread, honey, mango jam, boiled eggs, bananas, tea or coffee. You also get plenty of time and never felt hurried. He is extremely personable and knowlegable on several areas outside of birds. He carries his own scope and uses it all the time as well as his bird guide books he also has books on butterflies which was a bonus. We regularly got 6 to 8 hours out every trip and he went out of his way to accommodate us. I would strongly recommend Lloyd as a guide. His English is first class and he can be contacted via on his mobile by voice or text. Also his email is answered but not every day. His details are

Email fatimgoa@gmail.com

Telephone +91 9822 14 9002

Paresh was used on one trip to Mayem lake and was a huge disappointment. He did not hold a license to taxi at our visit and had clearly not been out birding for quite some time. He used another taxi driver to take us to the lake but whilst he went through the motions he was poor in executing being a guide. Sadly I cannot recommend him but I will put his details up as situations do change as we found him ok as a guide in 2009. It was also clear that because he used a taxi and driver the cost would be higher but on asking us for 1500rps I refused and settled on 1200rps. It was four hours birding with Paresh showing little interest in birding, rather telling us how bad his life was in various areas. His details are

Email pareshgoa@gmail.com

Telephone +91 98 2238 7494 

Weather & Temps

The weather again was mostly unbroken sunshine with the odd overcast spell but these were sometimes a welcome break to the hot midday temperatures. The wind was a small feature on several days in the mornings and evenings but never really impeded us. Humidity was about the same as in February but the notable difference was the degree or two cooler during the night and day. I say cooler but I never felt cold although Mandy did say that she felt chilled when eating outside in the evenings (but this could have more to do with being ill) Backwoods was at times cool at night but rapidly became very humid during the day which made it uncomfortable at times particularly if the birds are few. Daytime temps were on average 28.8ºC

Hi temp 30.6ºC    Low Temp 20.3ºC


Tues 21st Dec

Flight delayed In Manchester Airport

Wed 22nd Dec

Flight Delayed In Manchester Airport

Thurs 23rd Dec

The flight landed at about 01:30 and it was 04:00 when we hit our hotel. What a pain as the lack of sleep was now compounded with not many hours of darkness left. We asked for a double bed but were given singles. Quickly pushed together by the room boy and we were asleep.

As we were so tired we did not have the opportunity to do much birding as we had to go into Calangute to pay for a trip we had planned to Hampi in Karnataka. On our return we decided to chill at the hotel and rest ready for the early start tomorrow.
Hotel Grounds

start tomorrow.

Osprey Common Tailorbird Little Egret Black Kite  Spotted Owlet
  House Crow White Throated KingfisherBlue Tailed Bee Eater
 Brahminy Kite

Calangute - Arpora Walk (no binoculars)

 Bronzed Tailed Jacana
 Little Egret
 Cattle Egret
Intermediate Egret
Indian Pond Heron
Little Cormorant
 Blue Tailed Bee Eater
 Little Green Bee Eater
Black Kite
Brahminy Kite
House Crow
Common Sandpiper

Fri 24th Dec

Carambolim Lake Guide Lloyd Fernandes Cost 1600rps Times 06:15-14:30

Lloyd was prompt

 White Browed Bulbul
Ashy Prinia
 Plain Prinia
Indian Yellow Tit
Tawny Eagle
Ashy Woodswallow
 Greater Spotted Eagle
Marsh Harrier
Black kite
Brahminy Kite
Brahminy Starling
Chestnut Tailed Starling
Peregrine Falcon
House Crow
Clamorous Reed-warbler
Blyth's Reed Warbler
Greenish Warbler
Common Kingfisher
White-throated Kingfisher
Stork Billed Kingfisher
Common Tailorbird
Common Iora
Indian Golden Oriole
Black-hooded Oriole
Black Rumped Flameback
Purple Sunbird
Purple Rumped Sunbird
White Bellied Sea Eagle
Black Winged Stilt
Common Redshank
Common Greenshank
Purple Swamphen
Purple Heron
Grey Heron
Ruddy Shelduck
Comb Duck
Whistling Duck
Cotton Pygmy-gooseHouse Crow
Coppersmith Barbet
 Barn Swallow
Wire Tailed Swallow
Red Vented Bulbul
Red Whiskered Bulbul
Little Green Bee Eater
 Blue Tailed Bee Eater
Lotens Sunbird
 Loten's Sunbird Pompadour Green-pigeon Gull Billed Tern
 Black Tailed Godwit
 Garganey Northern Pintail
 Pintail Snipe
 Little Swift
 Great White Egret
Intermediate Egret
Little Egret
Bronze-winged Jacana
Pheasant-tailed Jacana 
 Indian Pond-heron
Darter
 Indian Cormorant
 Little Cormorant
 Long Tailed Shrike
 Black Headed Ibis
 Asian Openbill
 Little Grebe
 Common Sandpiper
Asian Koel
Greater Coucal
 Rufous Treepie
 Asian Paradise Flycatcher
Jungle Myna
White-browed Fantail
 Ashy Drongo
Black Drongo
 Paddyfield Pipit
White Browed Wagtail
Grey Wagtail
 Red Wattled Lapwing
Feral Pigeon
 Spotted Dove
White-breasted Waterhen
Osprey
Rose-ringed Parakeet
Plumb-headed Parakeet Siberian Stonechat
Oriental Magpie-robin Woolly-necked Stork
Orange-headed Thrush
    
     
Mongoose
Monitor Lizard
 3 x species Dragonflies
 Lots of Butterflies
 

Sat 25th Dec

Road from Arpora To Anjuna (Alexandrine Parakeet Site)

The flight land
Pale-billed FlowerpeckerCrimson Sunbird
 Alexandrine Parakeet
 Kentish Plover
 Pacific Golden Plover
 Red Wattled Lapwing
Common Sandpiper
 Common Kingfisher
 Common Greenshank
 White-throated Kingfisher
 Jungle Myna
Purple Rumped Sunbird
 Western Reef Egret
Little Egret
 Indian Pond Heron
Asian Koel
Green-backed Heron




Sun 26th Dec

Mayem Lake Guide Paresh Cost (asked for 1500rps actually paid) 1200rps Times 06:00 - 10:30

The flight land

Asian Koel
Malabar Whistling Thrush
Golden Fronted Leafbird
Black Naped Monarch
Puff Throated Babler
Malabar Grey Hornbill
Indian Blackbird
Brown Headed Barbet
White Cheeked Barbet
Red Vented Bulbul
Common Iora
Asian Paradise Flycatcher
Bronzed Drongo
Ashy Drongo
Pompadour Green Pigeon
Rufous Treepie
Eurasian Golden Oriole
 Greenish Warbler
Blythe's Reed warbler
Indian Cormorant
Red Whiskered Bulbul
Plumb Headed Parakeet
Grey Nightjar
Barn Swallow
Wire Tailed Swallow
Asian Palm Swift
Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher




Beira Mar Hotel (Evening)

The flight land

White-throated Kingfisher Common Kingfisher
Ruddy Breasted Crake
Indian Pond Heron
Jungle Myna
Blythe's Reed Warbler
Rose Coloured Starling
 Oriental Magpie Robin
Asian Koel
Brahminy Kite
 Black Kite
Siberian Stonechat
 White Rump Munia
 Small Pratincole
 
     


Mon 27th Dec

Arpora Wood (morning)

The flight land

 White Cheeked Barbet
Spotted Dove
 Grey Headed Bulbul
 Asian Koel
Red Whiskered Bulbul
 Mountain Imperial Pigeon
 Purple Sunbird
Purple Rumped Sunbird
 Red Vented Bulbul
Common Iora
Eurasian Golden Oriole
 White Rumped Munia
Coppersmith Barbet
Golden Fronted leafbird
Tickells Blue Flycatcher
 White Bellied Drongo
Ashy Drongo
 White Bellied Fish Eagle
 Rufous Woodpecker
Rufous Treepie
Blyths Reed Warbler
 Brahminy Kite
Black Kite
Little Green Bee Eater
Black Drongo
     
 Black Faced Langur x20
    
     
     
     

Arpora Salt Pans (Mid Morning)

The flight land

Marsh Sandpiper Kentish Plover
Little Egret Small PratincoleIndian Pond Heron
Common RedshankCommon Kingfisher
Common Stonechat (siberian)
White Throated Kingfisher
Common Redshank
     
Indian Cobra (Naja naja)
    


Tues 28th-30th Dec

Karnataka-Hospet-Hampi Tour


We set off doing our touristy bit under duress. We were to travel to Hospet in Karnataka the next state via train which would take about 8 hours in total. With hindsight we should have cancelled this trip due to being increasingly unwell. Non the less we decided to travel and decided we would travel light due to the nature of this trip. Due to not feeling like I wanted to do much I even decided to leave my binoculars at the hotel back in Goa!!!! I look back now and realise how ill I had become, I mean new birds to see yet not taking any bins. It transpired it was the right decision as it would have been more to worry about. Picked up early and after a long drive to Margao train station we arrived at madnesses door. It was chaos and we were instructed to stay close and watch for our two guides all the time. It was bedlam on a scale not known to us and clearly this got to some people on the trip. We heard one person out of a group of 30 throw the towel in at the train station and asked if he could leave. The guides asked why and he explained that he could not manage this sort of tension. He was told he could leave but he would have to get a taxi back on his own....so desperate he was he scarpered never to be seen!

We tried to soak up the atmosphere but the coughing and malee was hard work to ignore. Lot's of begging from children and women, watching the various colours of human excrement on each railway sleeper all added to a strange sort of wonderment. Eventually we saw our train and then we dived onto the train pushing and shoving as we reenacted the Egyptians trying to hold back the waves as Moses parted the Red Sea. We were on but it was not our carriage! Oh boy I felt for Mandy as we clung to the fact we had a seat each somewhere with our name on it. We started the haul down to find our carriage and believe you me these trains at this time of year are not what you envisage a train to be like! We got to our seats and found others in them but we managed to get in our place whereby we sat for 8 hours while we coughed, groaned and wished we had not bothered....oh boy we wish we had not bothered. We made conversation with Indians in the carriage which was quite good as we watched there antics. Anyway enough of the train as it has to be experienced to be believed...and to be well!

We arrived at the Hospet station and we were soon off to our hotel with more trepidation as we were told of a very basic hotel...to our surprise it was actuallt very good with everything looking OK. We had nothing to eat all day as my mouth problems and inability to eat just did not allow so after a quick walk out we decided that bed was the best option for the early start.
A light breakfast of eggs was had and we travelled by car to Hampi. Wow what a place, our guide for the site was a Mr Prakash whom is an archeologist on the project and what a guy he was. Very much a fountain of all things Hampi with a Westerners humour to boot. He stayed with us all day from 08:00 - 19:00. The sites were amazing from temples to structures to buildings to stories etc. Again it was hard work and there is no protection from the searing sun. I was shattered just about dragging myself around and when at 19:00 we were taken to a mountain for a sunset I fell asleep on the nearest stone slab!

Back to the hotel whereby I was becoming increasingly delirious. Nightime sleep was punctuated with periods of feeling stressed, worried...but about what I did not know. This is NOT me at all and by the time we reached the hotel in Hospet I was mentally and physically shot at. I opened my bedside cabinet whereby I lost the plot as I realised my bins had been stolen! Mandy was taken aback as I stormed off the reception to complain....I mean no bins....trip over! Trying to explain about my bins going missing to an Indian was worthy of a You Tube top ten clip but he finally understood and very nicely came up to the room. I explained I has placed them in the drawer and now they were gone......enter the room reality check as Mandy exclaimed " are you sure you brought them?" Gulp.....I apologised like never before as I remembered I had chosen not to bring them with me on this trip! Oh boy was I buggered. I mentioned to Mandy that I felt I was now suffering exhaustion, and we both said that we still had the train journey back home to contend with!!!

Up early and away with a packed breakfast. No way would I be able to eat so my plan was to give it away to beggars at the station. The boiled eggs I kept close though as I had gotten quite a hankering for these. Same journey back with an added cockroach climbing on me for good measure as I laid down thinking that I had reached an all time low point on the trip! A long trip back to the hotel in Goa and eventually we arrived back totally flat broken spirit wise. I was on auto pilot and the balcony was our only hope. I think the Gods also sighed as we made the sanctuary of the room.
The experience if well I know would have been great for several reasons so DO NOT let this put you off going. A few pictures below and a link to a few videos give you an idea of this very special and must see place.
Video footage Of our trip
 Hospet Walkabout HERE  Hospet Taxi Ride HERE  Train Journey from Goa to Karnataka HERE
  Hampi Site HERE
Hampi Website HERE
  

Fri 31st Dec

M

The flight land

Sat 1st Jan

M

The flight land

Sun 2nd Jan

Backwoods Camp

The flight land

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     


Mon 3rd Jan

Backwoods Camp

The flight land

Tues 4th Jan

Backwoods Camp

The flight land

Wed 5th Jan

Backwoods Camp

The flight land

Thurs 6th Jan

Baga Hill Afternoon

The flight land

Indian Robin
Long Tailed Shrike
 Indian Oriole
 Black headed Oriole
 Crimson Backed Sunbird
 Purple Sunbird
Purple Rumped  Sunbird
 Blyths Reed Warbler
Greenish Warbler
Small Minivet
 Indian Peafowl
 Asian Paradise Flycatcher
Spotted Dove
  

Fri 7th Jan

Soulor Guide LloydFernandes Cost 1200rps Times 06:45-10:30

The flight land

 Black Hooded Oriole
Malabar Wood Shrike
Golden Fronted Leafbird
Brown Cheeked Fulvetta
 Mountain Imperial Pigeon
 Spotted Dove
 White Throated Kingfisher
Indian Robin
Plumb Headed Parakeet
Yellow Throated Sparrow
 Vernal Hanging Parrot
 Long Tailed Shrike
Crested Tree Swift
Blyths Reed Warbler
 Black Lored Tit
 Black Kite
Brahminy Kite
Nigiri Woodpigeon
House Crow
White Rumped Munia
 Greenish Warbler
Black Naped Monarch
Rufous Woodpecker
Black Rumped Flameback
Pied Bushchat
Indian Roller
 Blue Tailed Bee Eater
Indian Spotted Eagle
Coppersmith Barbet
Red Vented Bulbul
 Red Whiskered Bulbul
 Indian Peafowl
Purple Rumped Sunbird
Greater Racket Tailed Drongo
Ashy Drongo
 White Bellied Drongo
Rufous Treepie
Asian Paradise Flycaycher
Rose Colloured Starling
Indian Scimitar Babler (call)
 Grey headed Bulbul (call)
    


Sat 8th Jan

Morgim. Parsham. Siolim. Guide LloydFernandes Cost 1200rps Times 06:45-15.00

Morgim

 Heuglins Gull Black Headed Gull
Pallas' Gull
Gull Billed Tern
Lesser Sanplover
Greater Sandplover
Paddyfield Pipit
Bay Backed Shrike
Brahminy Starling
Black Kite
IWhite Breasted Waterhen
Greater Coucal
Cattle Egret
Rose Coloured Starling
Indian Oriole
House Crow
Barn Swallow
WireTailed Swallow
Slender Billed Gull
Small Pratincole
 Blyths Reed Warbler
Jungle Myna
 Brahminy Kite
Black Drongo
 Little Green Bee Eater
 Blue Tailed Bee Eater    

Parsham

 Pied Kingfisher
Common Kingfisher
 White Throated Kingfisher
 Marsh Harrier
Common Greenshank
 Common Redshank
Gull Billed Tern
Ashy Prinia
Wire Tailed Swallow
Barn Swallow
 Jungle Babbler
Pale Billed Flowerpecker
Black Kite
Brahminy Kite
Grey Heron
Purple Heron
 Striated Heron
House Crow
Blyths Reed Warbler
Blue Tailed Bee Eater
     

Siolim

 White Stork
Asian Openbill
Marsh Harrier
 Pintail Snipe
Little Ringed plover
 Black Winged Stilt
Common Redshank
Marsh Sandpiper
Little Grebe
Bronzed winged Jacana
 White Breasted Waterhen
Common Greenshank
Greater Spotted Eagle
 Western Reef Egret
House Crow
Little Egret
Intermediate Egret
Great White Egret
Striated Heron
Indian Pond Heron
     


The flight land

Sun 9th Jan

m

The flight land

Mon 10th Jan

M

The flight land

Tues 11th Jan

M

The flight land

 Stork Billed Kingfisher
Alexandrine Parakeet
 Osprey Black Kite
 Booted Eagle
 Brahminy Kite
White Tailed Sea Eagle
Blue Tailed Bee Eater
House Crow
Striated Heron
Indian Pond Heron
Little Egret
Intermediate Egret
 Small Pratincole
Black Capped Night Heron
 Asian Palm Swift
Little Swift
 Barn Swallow
Wire Tailed Swallow
 Rose Ringed Parakeet
 Indian Oriole
 Common Tailorbird
Black Rumped Flameback
Jungle Myna
Rose Coloured Starling
 Purple Rumped Sunbird
Purple Sunbird
Common Sandpiper
Common Kingfisher
Red Whiskered Bulbul
 Grey Heron
 Asy Woodswallow
Oriental Honey Buzzard
Oriental Magpie Robin
 Besra
 Ashy Prinia
White Rumped Munia
Little Cormorant
  
     
 Fruit Bats
    


This was the details of a trip that was cancelled due to illness. Cost Breakdown

The flight was booked through Althams travel using Gold Medal travel as the agent. We also took out an insurance to cover any failures in our flight company as well as making sure that I used my credit card to pay for this as extra cover as at the moment travel companies are a real at risk problem. We also purchased the option of a drop off by Althams comfortable transport to and from Manchester Airport.

Flight Tickets, Flight insurance, Transport to and from Manchester Airport Total £863.46

Accommodation at the Marinha Dourada for 18 nights on a B&B basis total is £576

Visa Cost £42 each inc postage costs.